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If you’ve seen the movie Collateral, starring Jamie Foxx and Tom Cruise, you might remember how Foxx, a taxi driver, gets through the tough times in his life. Attached to the visor of his cab is a photo of the beautiful island. Every time he feels sad or has a less than stellar day, he looks at the picture and it takes him away from his problems and helps him remember that there is more to life than driving a cab.
Perhaps you have thought about it at one time or another; palm trees, white sand beaches and a crystal blue sea, sipping a cold beer and taking it all in? For some, Pattaya is too much in their face, Koh Samui and Phuket are too touristy, and Hua Hin just misses the “it” factor. Or maybe you have already been to these places and are just looking for a change. Whatever the reason, if you’re looking for the perfect getaway, I’ve got the place for you, and I hesitate to tell you. Call me selfish but I love the place and I want it all for myself: Koh Chang.
Koh Chang is approximately six hours from Bangkok by land. You can fly with Bangkok Air to nearby Trat (one hour and five minutes), however you will need to take a song thaew to the pier and then the ferry to Koh Chang. A return flight from Bangkok to Trat will cost you about 6,000 baht. Bangkok Airways provides minibuses to Ao Thammachat Pier free of charge.
A cheaper alternative would be to take one of the many air-conditioned buses (250 baht) available from Ekkamai or Mor Chit stations. The bus will take you to Trat and the travel time is about five hours. Take a song thaw to Ao Thammachat Pier and then take a ferry to the island. Also, vans are available on Khao San Road and elsewhere starting from 500 baht per person.
Ferries to and from the island run every thirty minutes from 6:30 am to 7:00 pm daily; the cost is 120 baht each way. The ride goes by quickly and there is food and drink available.
Once you reach the island, take a thaew song to your final destination. Rates range from 50 to 80 baht depending on whether you go to the closest beach, White Sand Beach (15 minutes), or one of the further ones, Lonely Beach (80 baht). No matter where you decide to go, immediately after landing you will be rewarded with stunning tropical scenery. Where you decide to stay is strictly a matter of personal preference, but the island is as close to paradise as you’ll find anywhere in the world and you won’t be disappointed. There is enough development to meet your basic needs, yes there is internet and cable TV, but the island is still relatively undeveloped.
Whether you’re looking for budget, spartan bungalows or four- and five-star resorts, there’s a wide range of accommodation on Koh Chang.
Arguably the White Sand area of the island is the most developed; Klong Prao and Kai Bae have wonderfully priced four and five star hotels with equally spectacular sea views. Lonely Beach, although not as lonely as it used to be, has managed to avoid becoming an overdeveloped tourist destination. Lonely Beach is a backpacker’s favorite destination with pristine beaches, low-priced bungalows, and farther from the pier than the more developed white-sand beach.
The White Sand area of the island is a great place to bring the family. Peaceful and yet with enough small restaurants and shops to keep you busy, at least for a few days. You can also do what I did, nothing, apart from lying on the beach, drinking beer.
There are no big shopping centers or cinemas on the island, but there is more than enough to do. If you’re tired of drinking at one of the plentiful Tiki bars along the beach, or gorging yourself on seafood, you can always take a trip to one of the island’s many waterfalls. Than Mayom Waterfall consists of four levels and is probably the most popular of the waterfalls on the island. In addition, you can swim in the large pool that is in front of the falls. Another waterfall worth traveling to is the three-tiered Klong Plu Waterfall. As with any waterfall you hike to, be warned: Klong Plu Falls are quite slippery and the last thing you need to ruin your vacation is a fifty meter drop.
Koh Chang has great food, affordable accommodation, extraordinary scenery and a relaxed atmosphere. For those who care, there is a bar scene. It doesn’t rival the nightlife of Phuket or Pattaya, but for a semi-deserted tropical island, it’s more than enough.
The worst thing about Koh Chang: the trip back to Bangkok.