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The welcome relief, the almost surreal calm, something is missing: the wind has stopped!
In the south of France, the mistral is a strong wind that usually blows from the north or northwest. Mistral, this wind’s name means “master”, and in my opinion, it certainly lives up to that reputation. The mistral usually blows strongly, with flavors sometimes up to 100 km/hour as it speeds down the Rhône and Durance rivers towards the Mediterranean. The mistral normally brings with it a change to cooler, dry weather and clear, blue skies. This can be a relief on hot spring and early summer days, or a curse in late fall, as it can bring chilly temperatures.
There are two French expressions, which this author believes to be accurate descriptors of the mistral”the wind that drives you crazy“(the wind that drives you crazy) and “the wind of thieves“(the wind of thieves). The mistral can blow for just a couple of days or even a week. A strong mistral will usually send cafe patrons indoors and make golf games virtually unplayable. The beautiful plane trees of Provence, with their noisy leafy canopies, provide excellent cover for thieves, as even dogs cannot hear their approach.
Like any wind, the mistral cannot be seen with the naked eye. His presence is known only for cold flavors and maddened supremacy over man, beast and flora. In a strange way, you can almost see rock outcroppings being formed by the sheer force of this unseen energy. Olive trees in Provence are usually pruned to keep them small, making them easier to harvest in the fall. It also allows the trees to cling tightly to their tiny buds as the wild wind tries to loosen them. The mistral has impacted the architecture of the region for centuries. The typical farmhouse or plus it was built to face south with its back to the wind. The bell towers of the churches have openings to allow the passage of the wind. Stone walls and interior patios are built for some minor relief. Even 3,000 years ago, stone dwellings called bored they were built in a way to evade the wind.
Wind can often bring some relief to hot, humid weather. However, that brief respite is quickly forgotten as sleep becomes nearly impossible for days on end. Wind can be a real threat at certain times of the year, when conditions are dry and there is a risk of wildfires. We experienced our first mistral in October when exploring Provence on our bikes, it was a shock. That particular mistral was strong enough to nearly topple both bike and rider. It was certainly cold enough to warrant jackets and, in my case, long gloves.
A traveler to Provence may be lucky for a short stay and completely lose the wind. Or they may experience the totally unpleasant force for days on end. Then one day dawns and something has clearly changed, there is a sense of peace. Olive and fruit trees can resume their production cycles in the calm. The visitor can return to explore the glorious region.