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Introduction
Hello and ‘Lei Hou’ – that’s ‘hello’ in Cantonese, one of the most widely spoken Chinese dialects in Malaysia.
Chan See Shu Yuen Temple was built more than a century ago. The four founding fathers of this temple, Chan Sow Lin, Chan Xin Xi, Chan Chun, and Chan Zhai Tian, were also among the early pioneers of Kuala Lumpur. Do you notice that they all have the same last name Chan?
The Chan See Shu Yuen Clan Association is an association of the ‘Chan’ clan. People with the surname Tan, Chan, and Chen belong to this clan, as the Mandarin character for these names is the same. Chan is a very common Chinese surname and many of them come from Guangzhou in China. There is an Ancestral Temple of the Chan Family in Guangzhou, and this one is inspired by him. This is why you see similar Cantonese architecture and art. Work began in 1896 and took ten years to complete.
Think of it also as a club for people who came from the same province in China. When the Chinese immigrants arrived in Malaysia, it was very difficult for them to adapt to this new and foreign land. That is why clan associations are important, because they provide immigrants with contact with people who speak the same language, as well as contact with their relatives in China. The clan association also looks after their general well-being.
The association also houses a temple, which is the subject of this article.
From the outside you will not miss the green and red façade. In fact, the temple is sometimes known as The Green Temple. Look from left to right, especially at the roof line, and you will see the elaborate ornaments that decorate the temple. Carefully thorough, they tell stories from ancient China and Chinese mythology.
Just before entering the temple compound, there are two pillars with blue caps. To admire the front facade of the temple, head to the left. These are the famous terracotta figures that tell ancient history and mythology. These carvings and sculptures are elaborate and fascinating. There are also the same captivating carvings on the far right of the front facade.
Inside the temple
Do not forget that in Malaysia, religious places are not tourist places, but actual religious places used by believers for worship. If you see some devotees deep in meditation or prayer, be as discreet as possible.
On the doors, top left and right, you can see two gray stone lions. Stone lions are believed to protect the temple from demons. The Chinese characters below them translate very loosely to welcome blessings.
There is another pair at eye level, and this time, they are white. At first glance one may think that they are the same, but take a good look at their legs and you will see that they are different. Guardian lions are always made in pairs: a female and a male. The one on the left is the guardian lioness, and she has a cub on her right paw, representing the circle of life. The one on the right is the male guardian lion, and he has his left paw on a globe to represent his feeling the “pulse of the earth.” Symbolically, the woman guards those who live inside and the man guards the structure of the temple.
On the stone walls, there are some Chinese characters, which is a typical feature of Chinese architecture. At the top, there are four large Chinese characters. Unlike English, Chinese words are read from right to left and top to bottom. The four words say “Chen Shi Shu Yuen”, which means “Study Hall of the Chan Clan”. The Chan clan, if you remember, occupies this clan association. There are small characters on each side of the words. They tell you the name of the writer and when it was written. In Chinese calligraphy, or in Chinese writing, writing is not just writing. It is an artistic skill and each piece is a work of art. Think of Michelangelo or Leonardo Da Vinci painting a masterpiece and signing on the corner of the work. In fact, it is said that the personality of a writer is reflected in his writing. On the right and left side of the door, there are more Chinese characters. They are too poetic to be translated, but they vaguely mean that “light radiates from honor and wisdom never dies.” This type of greeting is important in Chinese architecture and each temple has its unique greetings. If you have the opportunity to visit other Chinese temples, ask the locals to translate these wise words for you.
When you walk through the red door, the first thing that strikes you is the richly ornamented carvings of a gold square above your head.
To the left and to the right are altars for the deities that guard the door.
On the left, next to the sanctuary, there are two inscriptions on plates; one red and one white. And to the right, next to the sanctuary, there are also two inscriptions on plates, both black. Think of them as a kind of Hall of Fame, where great and prominent members of the Chan clan are recognized for their contribution to the advancement of the clan. They could have built schools, preserved their heritage, donated large sums of money, or anything that helped the Chan clan.
On the red pillars on both sides, there are even more Chinese characters. What do they say this time? Again, a little too poetic to translate, but they are reminders for the current generation not to forget their ancestors. The Chinese remember their ancestors through a unique tradition called ancestor worship. They would put pictures or inscriptions on their ancestors and offer food and incense sticks as a way to seek their blessings. It is similar to the Catholic practice of seeking the intervention of saints, people of integrity who have passed away. In many Chinese homes, you can see images and inscriptions of the deceased on the altar next to the gods. In fact, right here in this temple, is where the current generation of Chans worships their ancestors.
In the open courtyard there is now a shop that sells a lot of interesting Chinese souvenirs, and by that, I don’t mean cheesy tourist souvenirs, but great teas, ceramic teapots, and many other interesting traditional items. Chinese teas have their own grades, just like wine. There is a Chinese saying, when describing good tea, that good tea has such a strong fragrance that it sticks to the cup after you have finished drinking. To the right is an exhibition hall that displays many interesting cultural presentations, such as Chinese calligraphy. And in front, is the main sanctuary.
From the center of the courtyard the rooftops of the buildings surrounding the courtyard are clearly visible. The first thing that will catch your attention is the concept of open space. Many do not realize that the courtyard is inside the building and not outside. This is a very typical feature of Chinese architecture, and many temples are built like this. The courtyard is surrounded on all sides by building units. This is often referred to as the ‘sky well’ concept because the roofs form a small opening into the sky. You may also notice that the breadth of the building is more important than the height and depth, which gives the width of the building a visual impact. The ceiling design uses the Kwang Tung ceramic style, which uses undulating waves as the motif.
Right in front is the main hall called De Xing Hall. I will explain each section from left to right. On the left, there are four photographs of the first founding fathers. They are the first important members of the Chan clan. Next to the photos there is a room. There are black and white photographs of deceased members of the Chan family. Here, the Chinese perform ancestral worship. There are row after row of names written on yellow paper. They are the names of the dead. The Chinese believe that life continues after death and that the dead can influence the fate of the living. Therefore, the faithful pray that their ancestors bless them with good luck and protect them from harm. Others do it out of filial piety, which is heavily emphasized in Chinese culture.
On the left wall you can see pieces of wood in red, orange and yellow. They are an ancient epistle, written by a stranger to remind his relatives that the deceased will always be watching over the living, guiding and protecting them. This is another reminder for today’s generation of the importance of ancestor worship.
On the altar on the left, you will see a golden shrine with more images of the deceased. In front of them, on the table, are five porcelain vases. On the imposing golden pillar, there are Chinese characters, loosely translated as a blessing for this divine place, that its name would be as sweet as a fragrance and that this place will pour out wisdom and talent.
Moving to the main altar, you will see a magnificent golden shrine. This is the resting place of the upright, as the sign says. The three statues are those of Emperor Shun’s Master Chung Hua, Master Chen Hu Man of the later ancestor, and Master Chen Yuan Guang of the Honorary Ruler of Kai Zhang. On the table, there are two paper servants. Paper servants are usually burned, along with coins believed to have been used in the afterlife, also known as banknotes from hell. There are many other modern paper folds, such as cars, houses, televisions, telephones, etc., as they are believed to be greeted by the dead when burned. There are also five majestic vases on the table.
At the top of the middle vase, there is a dancing lion. A dancing lion is believed to invite prosperity and drive away evil spirits.
On the next towering pillar of gold, there are words of praise for this temple and a reminder that to prosper, you must remember your ancestors.
At the end, on the altar to your right, there are more photographs of the deceased. The layout is similar to the one on the left.
Next to it, you will see the same red, orange and yellow plank design. These are again reminders of the importance of ancestral worship.
The following four images are more images of prominent members of the clan.
There is a room on the right side of the temple. There, there are many exhibits such as Chinese tea exhibits, calligraphy demonstrations, and painting techniques.
We have reached the end of the Chan See Shu Yuen Clan Association temple guide. There is a guest book near the altar on the right if you would like to leave your comments.