By 
Boa constrictors have always been a popular pet snake. Similar to Burmese pythons in that they are considered a “friendly giant” of the snake world. Fortunately, however, they do not reach the size of Burmese pythons. Boa constrictors typically average 7 to 9 feet in length, with females being the largest. However, they have been known to reach 14 feet in length, a formidable force for such a large-bodied snake. Many subspecies of Boa constrictor are now recognized, most of which are variants from smaller localities and should also be considered good pet snakes. These variations are a good alternative if space is an issue.
Accommodation
When keeping a pet snake, you generally want to be able to view the snake from outside its enclosure, in the most natural environment it can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and will also help the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow faster. A larger vivarium also offers more interest in the snake’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products, you will improve the snake’s quality of life and prevent it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger, you should have more resistance to any viral infection or any other problems you may encounter later in life.
For an adult Boa constrictor, a 2m long x 0.9m wide x 1m high vivarium is sufficient. These large constrictors are one of the few species that are generally not concerned with the size of their enclosure. The more space you can provide; the best. Many keepers decide to dedicate an entire room to their beloved snake. Other guardians may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and roof of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will reduce construction costs and allow a larger space for the boa. Juveniles should be offered a much smaller enclosure until you are sure they are comfortable with you, their surroundings, and are regularly fed.
Snake enclosures can be made from various materials. The most widely used is a melamine-coated wood that covers all sides except the front, which has sliding glass doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Boa constrictors, although a specialized lid must be purchased or made instead of the original aquarium lid. It’s essential when thinking about what type of cabinet you use, think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:
1) Safety – Can the snake or owner be injured by the enclosure or any apparatus within?
2) Safe – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be the right size?
4) Heating – Is the room capable of regulating the temperature correctly?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic: will the enclosure accumulate a lot of bacteria in the small cavities? Is it easy to clean?
By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.
Decor
The decoration on your tank serves two purposes. Firstly, it is additional cover for your snake, and secondly, it allows for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing decoration, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure whatever you decide to use is securely fastened and that no rocks, wood, or anything heavy can fall and could injure or even kill the snake. You should also make sure that everything you use is free of parasites. If something has been picked up from outside, or originally came from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for about 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in sub-zero temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.
Once all of your decor is free of parasites, it is safe to place it inside your enclosure. As a general rule of thumb, if you can press down on an item to knock it down, a Boa constrictor is certainly capable of it. When placing rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If you’re still uncomfortable, screw them in or use super glue to fix them securely. If it’s not possible, the rule is simple: Don’t put the item in the nursery!
If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you should provide enough cover and hiding areas. A hide can be anything from a large tupperware with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and decorations you can use that are safe for the animal and easy on the eyes. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet store in the UK, and can be ordered if they don’t have it in stock. This is an excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing to keep in mind when thinking about nursery size is that the larger you go, the more hiding areas you need to provide. I recommend at least one hide per meter length of the enclosure.
NOTE: Never use duct tape on an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; Removing duct tape from any snake is no easy task!
Heating
Boa constrictors require a thermal gradient, which means that they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find the required temperature. The hot end of the cabinet should be between 88 and 92ºF, while the cold end should be between approximately 80 and 84ºF. Overnight the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84º
In my opinion, the ideal way to heat a large Boa constrictor’s enclosure is to use a large 250W ceramic heater with a reflector and safety grill so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not emit light and therefore in a nursery you will also need a form of lighting. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat pulse proportional thermostat, which will stop power to the heater as soon as the temperature rises above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cold. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.
Hot plates, spotlights, and heat mats are also ways to heat a nursery. All of these have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion none are as good as ceramic heaters for large rooms. Heat mats are absolutely not recommended for large snakes, if so they should not be accessible to them.
Turning on
Boa constrictors are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping and their prey is awake. However, this is not to say that they never see the sun or any form of illumination. They often bask during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.
Having artificial lighting in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner and makes a nice addition to a snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photoperiod, and your regular time clock will usually adjust to the setting you have your light set to.
They do not require any type of special lighting, such as a D3 UV light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia natural sunlight fluorescent lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths from 12″ to 48″ and I suggest you use the largest size that will fit inside your nursery. In an enclosure the size of a room, some may be needed.
Humidity
Boa constrictors are found in much of central and northern South America and are therefore exposed to high humidity. This needs to be replicated in captivity to help your snake’s overall health and well-being. A humidity range of 60-70% will allow the snake to shed its skin properly and be less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.
Feeding
The pups should be offered furry mice or rat pups, and as they grow older, the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Boa constrictor should be fed large rats. One or two of these every 2-3 weeks is enough. The pups should be fed regularly, ideally every 5-7 days. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they grow they need a lot more food to keep going. The only exception when adult females need to eat more is when they need to gain weight to reproduce, or just after giving birth. A pregnant female should be fed twice the normal amount for several weeks after giving birth and for as long as possible after ovulation. Snakes have the ability to accumulate a large reserve of fat and become obese very easily. Removing the weight however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly as long as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure of your snake’s weight, consult with a reptile vet.