Every town in Cyprus has a ‘kafenio’ or cafeteria. It is as much an integral part of the community as a church or a tavern and is considered a social gathering place. People who enjoy budget holidays should strive to visit at least one kafenio to experience a taste of the “real” Cyprus that has been around for centuries. The kafenio is usually located in the central town square and is seen by some as the center of town life. Some of the larger towns have more than one kafenio, but they are always located in the center of town.

People come to kafenios for a variety of different reasons. They come to meet their friends, enjoy a game of tavli (backgammon), gossip, eat and of course have coffee. Coffee comes in 3 categories; ‘metrio’ is medium with a teaspoon of sugar, ‘glyko’ is sweet with two tablespoons of sugar and ‘sketo’ has no sugar. In addition to coffee, the kafenio also sells hot and cold drinks and alcohol. Traditionally they sold herbal drinks that were produced locally and in some of them you can still buy aniseed, mint or spadgia (a Cypriot herb) tea. Other drinks available are the ubiquitous Frappe which Cypriots seem inordinately fond of. It is a frothy iced coffee made from instant iced coffee, varying amounts of sugar, and milk all blended together. Today, kafenios have moved with the times and now sell ‘modern’ coffees like lattes and cappuccinos.

Coffee in Cyprus is still brewed in small long-handled pots, wide at the base and tapered at the top, called ‘Mbrikia’. Traditionally, they were always made of copper. Visitors on holiday to Cyprus tend to bring them back as a popular souvenir. To make proper Cyprus coffee, a heaped teaspoon of coffee is added to each small cup of cold water. Sugar is added while the water is still cold. The amount depends on your individual preference. The mbrikias are then heated on a stove or in small trays filled with hot sand for more even heat distribution. When the sugar dissolves, the coffee is brought to a boil, forming a creamy foam, known to Cypriots as ‘kaimaki’ on top. As the foam begins to rise, the coffee is removed from the boil. Cyprus coffee tends to be quite strong and is served in small cups and is usually served with a glass of water. The grounds are never drunk and when the cup is empty it is inverted onto a small plate or saucer.

The kafenios in Cyprus are as varied as the drinks they sell. Trendy cafe like ‘Da Capo’ in Nicosia is popular with tourists on late breaks and local youth who gather their friends here and sit outside and people watch. ‘Oktana’ in the old city of Nicosia is a popular kafenio and can get quite crowded. People come here for the coffee, which is excellent, and to play backgammon. They are also famous for their delicious crepes. There is a beautiful patio in the back and in the basement, you can relax in the cozy Uqbar and smoke a hookah. Another good kafenio in Cyprus is the ‘Kala Kathoumena’ cafeteria in Nicosia. A great favorite with the art set, people come here to meet their friends. It is the place to be seen and attracts many Cypriot celebrities.

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